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#1
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![]() Quote:
This. Good pistols+Dremel=Bad Juju
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NRA Life Member Wilson Combat CQB Kimber Tactical Pro II S&W J-Frame .38 ect " I don't own the clothes I'm wearin', and the road goes on forever " ![]() There's a gator in the bushes, and it's calling my name... COTEP #523 |
#2
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Yes..I am well aware of the danger of the DREMEL!
Don't have time for pic right now..got to get cleaned up and take the Wife out to dinner. Will try to do and post pics later tonight. ![]() |
#3
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Here's what was passed onto to me to remove rust and scratches...
Go to the hardware store and get yourself some 0000 steel wool. Use that in combination with some good penetrating oil, ie.. Kroil, CorrosionX, etc... Rub with the grain of the metal. Good luck. |
#4
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![]() ![]() ![]() The way the light is hitting it makes it look like it's dented but it is not. |
#5
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Now, I read somewhere that you should not use steelwool on stainless steel. Anyone know for sure? |
#6
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You might also try some Flitz......
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#7
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That's a good idea.
I have some FLITZ and trying a little of it 1st, might just let me know how bad these scratches really are. I'll post the results in the morning. ![]() |
#8
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Ooooooh, you're a lefty. There's your problem right there
![]() ![]() If you can find scotch brite pads in their finest grade (I don't know what that would be), they would be a good consideration instead of the steel wool. I have used them on my dad's model 66. Good luck
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COTEP CBOB390 Government name- Terry |
#9
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I used Scotchbrite maroon (#7447) to remove an idiot mark from my Springfield Stainless GI. It worked perfectly with on hassle and no trace. Be sure to go with the grain and slowly.
The use of the green Scotchbrite pads found in the stores is not recommended as it is too coarse. The maroon stuff can be found at body shops or online.
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COTEP #447 |
#10
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This is the holster that allowed my jeans to get nasty w/my slide!
![]() ![]() These pics were taken when I wore dress-pants and sport coats. |