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#1
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Okay, once a 1911 is broken-in(God! I hate that term), the lube requirements drop a lot. Translation; You don't need as much as you would think. So, without further ado(Fancy term for BS), here's how I lube mine.
The usual suspects; ![]() Disassemble and clean. As you can see, I use Plastilube Grease( Small yellow-lid tub) and LSA gun-oil. ![]() 1.) The Rails- You don't need a lot of grease here, I take a Q-Tip,dab it into the tube of grease and put three small dabs on each rail,front center and rear; ![]() 2.) The Barrel- I put two drops of LSA(Be sure to shake the squeeze bottle vigorously for about fifteen seconds first) on the barrel. One towards the muzzle,the other on the Hood. ![]() Then I smooth the oil over the entire barrel with my finger until it's all got a light coating of oil on it. ![]() 3.) The Link- I put one drop of oil on the link at the lug and work it back and forth a couple times. ![]() 4.) Assemble the 1911 and work the slide about five times. Then wipe the excess grease off of the rear of the slide. ![]() 5.) The Hammer pivot- I put one drop of LSA on the Hammer pivot and work the hammer twice. ![]() Done, I've run 500 rounds through my Rock with just this level of lubing and had no problems. Now, you'll all notice I didn't oil the rifling and chamber. Guess what??? You don't need to unless the gun won't be shot for a couple months or you live in an extremely humid climate. I shoot at least twice,most times four times a month, rust or corrosion doesn't have time to form before I clean again. Plus, an oily bore will throw the first round off(Cold-bore syndrome) and oil in the chamber can increase pressure by not allowing full stretch of the case. Hope this helps you guys. Dave
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Diligentia, Vis, Celeritas COTEP#CBOB0428 NRA,GCA,OGCA, USAF,Msgt.(Ret.) Last edited by Dave Waits; 02-20-2012 at 01:52 PM. |
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#2
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Thanks for posting that Dave!!
![]() Everyone always asks about proper lubrication on a 1911!!
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"This is the 44 Magnum AutoMag and holds a 300 grain cartridge and if properly used can remove the fingerprints"!! COTEP # CBOB0152 |
#3
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Thanks, saved me from asking.
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#4
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Thanks for the demo Dave!
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CBOBO555 If You Run, You'll Only Die Tired U.S.M.C. Combat Vet 64-68 Kentucky Colonel Retired Motor Officer |
#5
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Thanks for sharing this info for the 1911 newbies. I prefer the use of FP10 exclusively on my 1911s for the exception of a small amount of grease on the sear/disconnector when doing a complete breakdown. Grease doesn't stay put on the rails of my tightly fitted 1911s.
Sent from my ATRIX using Tapatalk
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CBOB0235 |
#6
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Titan, it may be the Grease you tried, my Frame/slide fit is very tight, I have no problems. FP10 is a good lube and that's all that matters.
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Diligentia, Vis, Celeritas COTEP#CBOB0428 NRA,GCA,OGCA, USAF,Msgt.(Ret.) |
#7
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I do the pretty much the same except I run a cutup Remoil patch down the bore (humid here in Dixie) and use Ultimalube Universal on the rails.
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NRA Life Member Wilson Combat CQB Kimber Tactical Pro II S&W J-Frame .38 ect " I don't own the clothes I'm wearin', and the road goes on forever " ![]() There's a gator in the bushes, and it's calling my name... COTEP #523 |
#8
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Sent from my ATRIX using Tapatalk
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CBOB0235 |
#9
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Nice thread,
![]() Good step by step illustrations. As far as the bore, Schuemann Barrels says the same thing, just firing rounds will eventually get the bore shinny? (last paragraph) http://www.schuemann.com/LinkClick.a...bid=67&mid=445 Greg
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If it wasn't for an electrician, you'd be watching TV in the dark. ![]() Author Unknown CBOB:0581 |
#10
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Thanks Dave, another great info thread.
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canis fidelis cave canem, vereor non magnus nocens lupus In hoc signo vinces If you can list them, you ain't got enough!!! Life Member NRA, SCI, ATA, NSCA COTEP 414 |