Springfield Armory M1a?

[svandamme]

First zero'ed it at 100 meter, this was the first set of , 11 shots after zero'ing it.
Didn't have a bipod or bench rest , just rested it a wooden plank



Then my front aperture fell off and i didn't have the right allen key with me to tighten it up again.

At first it wouldn't cycle, turns out the gas valve was set wrong..
Then it cycled.. but had a couple of stove pipes.. I'll take it apart, and clean the gas system properly... It seemed to improve as i was finishing up..
I think it's safe to say , the Zombies will have to keep their distance...

[Jason_G]

I'll take it apart, and clean the gas system properly...

When you unscrew the GC plug (requires a 3/8" wrench), be sure to hold the gas system and barrel together tightly with your other hand to prevent torquing on the whole system. Sadlak makes a tool that holds everything together when you do this, but I've never needed it. Also, don't use a 12 point wrench/socket, you might round off the corners.

Sadlak also makes some nice hand drills for reaming the carbon buildup out of the gas system. I don't own them, but I've come close to ordering them several times. I usually just use bronze bore brushes (.45 brush fits right into the GC and plug) and old mops to get the gas system clean. That being said, I usually clean mine often enough to keep the carbon from caking up in there.

Make sure the gas system stays bone dry. No oil.

Remember if you clean the bore that any solvents you use will run through the port and into the GC unless you have the rifle oriented sights down. Run your sights all the way down first (bottom the rear out, IOW). Foams will get in there regardless of how you orient the rifle. If solvents do get into the gas system, dry out the gas system before shooting it again.

When you clean your rifle and get ready to relube it, make sure you use grease and not oil. The field manual calls for Lubriplate, but any kind of bearing grease will work just fine. The bolt roller especially needs to be packed with grease. They make a bolt roller greaser tool, but a piece of .45 brass works just fine. Just fill the brass with grease, stick it over the roller, and spin. Any areas on the bolt, op rod, top of the trigger group, and receiver that appear shiny from metal-on-metal contact should get a little grease.



Jason

[svandamme]

Thanks Jason,

the .45 brass is handy to know, already had that bolt greaser on my list. but if brass works, pefect, got that already !
Got ATE Plastilube, it was on the recommended list @ M14forums.com

With the long Easter weekend, now done shooting.
I'll spend my time taking it apart, and making a wooden jig to lay the rifle upside down in to take it out of the stock..
Then spend my time watching the Videos on maintenance, and read up on things...

I have to say, it took me a long time to get one, but now that i have it i understand :
Happiness IS a warm gun. My 1911 is fun, but this is WAY more fun.

[Jason_G]

My 1911 is fun, but this is WAY more fun.

Most fun you can have with your clothes on, anyway.


I took mine out yesterday and shot about 4 rounds through it at 255 m (279 yds) just for giggles (I was really there to shoot my carry pistol). It was the last four rounds of ammo that I had in a mag. Here's my impromptu target (a piece of fiberboard that was lying around:



The flyer on the right was the last shot I took, and it was all me. I let my sight picture shift right at the last second, and knew it when I shot. Including the flyer, the group is about 6.5". Excluding it, the three round group that I shot first was about 3.6". The irons on the M14 are awesome.

My guess, svandamme, is that you have officially begun an addiction.


Jason

[svandamme]

Originally Posted by Jason_G

My guess, svandamme, is that you have officially begun an addiction.


Jason

Confirmed.