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#11
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The small symbol in front of the serial number wasn't super clear, but I was able to determine that it is either a "chi" or a "nu" character which would indicate a series 8 vs series 10. I am betting it is the "chi". you can confirm by looking at the top of the symbol, If it looks more like a 'T' it is a series 8, if it looks more like a number 7, it is a series 10.
What you have there is a Nagoya Arsenal (Tokyo) "Last Ditch" Arisaka. If it is a series 8, it would have been made sometime between May and September of 1944. If it is a series 10, it would have been made sometime between September - December 1944. Once the serial numbers in a series went to 99999, they started over with 00000 and started a new series, The last ditch rifles were crudely finished, with the bare minimum of machining necessary to make the rifle functional. You may or may not have a buttplate on the rifle, and if you do, it is about a 50% chance that it is a wood plate nailed to the stock rather than a metal plate. Your bolt handle wasn't finished, and the knob is smaller, which, like the elimination of the buttplate, was an attempt to conserve metal. Your bayonet is also a "Last Ditch", using a cheaper steel, lacking the hooked quillion of the original type 30 bayonets. The bayonet was made by a Nagoya Arsenal subcontractor: Kaneshiro Sakuganki Seizo Arsenal, which is indicated by the star next to the Nagoya proof mark, and made sometime between mid 1944 and early 1945. Kaneshiro Sakuganki Seizo Arsenal is one of the less common bayonet manufacturers. There may be a symbol and a serial number on the pommel of the blade. Hope that helps tell a little about it.
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There are no dangerous weapons; there are only dangerous men. To speak without thinking is to shoot without aiming. Last edited by AFJuvat; 03-20-2017 at 08:32 PM. |
#12
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Wow impressive info. I will try to get the symbol for you. The butt plate is just tacked on to the stock. Looks really cheap too. The bolt looks like it was quickly welded and no finishing on the bolt or stryker assembly or any place. It shoots will with the fixed peep sights.
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#13
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Wow, glad I opened this thread.
No pics Mike? |
#14
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The sad remains of the one I picked up today is sitting in a tub of paint stripper.
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There are no dangerous weapons; there are only dangerous men. To speak without thinking is to shoot without aiming. |
#15
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If I know Mike, it'll get the best treatment possible. If it's healthy enough to survive, he will be able to save it. If not then, it's a parts gun or wall hanger.
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**I have been Enlightened** |
#16
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Wow.... great thread!
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COTEP: CBOB578 DW CCO SIG GSR 1911 SA Micro Compact and a spectacular cast of others! "You have never lived, until you have almost died. And for those who fight for it, life has a flavor that the protected will never know." Guy de Maupassant, 1893. Anonymously, penned on a sign at a command post at Khe Sanh, RVN. |
#17
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I agree. I always learn a ton when Mike posts about milsurp rifles.
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Pedro U / Member# 0770 |
#18
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Quote:
Quote:
The T-99 constantly evolved over its production lifetime. The earliest models had a monopod and fold down anti-aircraft wings on the rear sight (pictured in attachments). The intent was that a squad or platoon would fire at the aircraft 'en volley'. It worked fairly decently against Chinese biplanes that flew low and slow, not so much against US aircraft, so they were eliminated in late 1942 - early 1943. Trivia: The Arisaka T-99 was the first military rifle with a chrome lined barrel. The original intent was to protect the barrel during the island hopping campaigns in a marine environment. This is why the surviving rifles are good shooters given their age. Chrome lining was eliminated by most of the manufacturers sometime in late 1944 - early 1945.
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There are no dangerous weapons; there are only dangerous men. To speak without thinking is to shoot without aiming. |
#19
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Great info. Mine is just like pics on the right the terrible welds. After i get jr to school i am going to figure out the stamping.
Great thread bud!!
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#20
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The best I can make out the symbol on the other side of the serial number is the one that corresponds with the 10 on your chart. Really hard to tell but that looks like it.
On the bayonet the end is ground off so you can't tell. The end of the handle has some numbers but it is so wore that you can tell what they are at all.
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