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Old 05-30-2012, 10:45 AM
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Tuesday's shadetree gunsmithing went quite well, if you disregard the usual fun with inserting the sear and disconnector. Learned some new "descriptive verbs", but after that, all the parts practically fell into place. The test firings went quite well and after 100 rounds down range, felt that we had a tack driver that didn't malfunction anymore, (so far). I've got another 500 rounds or so of malfunction free shooting to go before I'll feel comfortable using the Commander as a carry. Did discover that the hammer strut pin had apparently been pinned by a previous owner when I tried to replace the blued hammer with a SS hammer. Another order going in for a new hammer strut and hammer strut pin (actually, I'll get the whole package of replacement pins and springs as a cheap piece of insurance). Been a pleasure dealing with Ed Brown Company on the parts. Very quick delivery, parts look and feel very skookum.

In conclusion, a very happy camper. Now, if you'll excuse me, I gotta go put in 15 minutes of dry fire practice (try to get in at least 4 of these sessions daily).
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Old 05-30-2012, 06:58 PM
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First of all, I would measure your Disconnector length. I suspect it'll be right around 1.296". If so keep it, it's perfectly good. Next, has any adjustment been made to the trigger-stop screw? An improperly adjusted screw( turned too far towards the front of the trigger or worse, removed) will allow the bow to push the disconnect too far and result in Hammer-Follow as it won't allow the sear to capture the Hammer-hooks. Next, when you reassembled after your 'Armorers' Cleaning', did you install the searspring correctly? If not, it will allow the Disconnector to stay up and not reset. This will cause Hammer-Follow. Here's how the Searspring should look if properly installed.


All in all, of the parts you replaced, the sear MAY be bad but, the gun would have to have 10s of thousands of rounds through it for a correctly fitted sear to fail.
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Old 05-31-2012, 12:53 PM
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Trigger stop screw: It is correctly adjusted, however, we're replacing the trigger because it's some off-brand that is poorly fitted. There's entirely too much slop in it's travel (in all four directions, up and down and to the sides). I have 3 other 1911's which have trigger movement which is correct. The CBOB trigger movement isn't.
The reset is working correctly.

No parts are ever tossed until spec'd out. Thanks for the measurement on the disconnector.
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