Coatings for cast lead bullets

[Gatorade]

Only thing left is to size them but I want to clean my sizing dies. They are caked with dried alox. These are .356 158gr that I can use for .38 or .357, and .401 180gr that I want to use for .40 S&W. Now that I have seen the results I also want to get a 9mm round nose and a 300 BLK die and start casting for those as well! I am going to be a very happy guy if I can get jacked performance bullets from cast wheel weights! Time to hit up the tire shops!

[Gatorade]

Ran these through the sizer. Needed a little Rem oil spray in the die but they sized pretty good. I am thinking I could give these a second coat and then a final size and they should stay coated. All in all I think those were a pretty good first run.



I have not been to worried about the flat nose or the cone because those won't contact the barrel. I may need to adjust when I start coating round nose bullets.

[Lonestar grips.]

you're off to a good start.


if you have any bare spots on the bearing surfaces then i'd recoat. otherwise I wouldn't bother.

question,

what are you using to shake them in? and are you using the airsoft bb's?

[Gatorade]

Originally Posted by Lonestar grips.

you're off to a good start.


if you have any bare spots on the bearing surfaces then i'd recoat. otherwise I wouldn't bother.

question,

what are you using to shake them in? and are you using the airsoft bb's?

Ok I'll re-coat if there are bare spots on the area of contact.

No BBs just a plastic container I haven't had time to get to the store to get some. I was thinking the static from the plastic container may make due for now. I also would need to clean my tumbler because it has walnut media caked in it that would need to be cleaned out first.

[Lonestar grips.]

Originally Posted by Gatorade

Ok I'll re-coat if there are bare spots on the area of contact.

No BBs just a plastic container I haven't had time to get to the store to get some. I was thinking the static from the plastic container may make due for now. I also would need to clean my tumbler because it has walnut media caked in it that would need to be cleaned out first.

judging from your second picture the powder isn't sticking as good as it should. make sure your plastic container is a number 5 (bottom of container, triangle with "5" inside it) this kind of plastic generates better static electricity. and when you get the BB's get the black colored ones. they're supposed to work the best.

how long are you shaking them? sometimes it can take more than 2 or 3 minutes. when you're boolits have a nice, even coat then you should be good to go.

[Gatorade]

Second batch started much better with the airsoft bbs. All they had was the red ones. Gave a much improved coating. The parchment paper didn't work out so well. I think the thermostat on my cheap oven got a little too high. Melted a couple bullets and the parchment burnt up. Next trip to Publix will get non stick foil. Had to pull them out a couple minutes early but the ones that didn't melt look better.

[Lonestar grips.]

Originally Posted by Gatorade

Second batch started much better with the airsoft bbs. All they had was the red ones. Gave a much improved coating. The parchment paper didn't work out so well. I think the thermostat on my cheap oven got a little too high. Melted a couple bullets and the parchment burnt up. Next trip to Publix will get non stick foil. Had to pull them out a couple minutes early but the ones that didn't melt look better.

yeah, cheap to mid priced toaster ovens are notorious for never being accurate temperature wise. it was suggest to me that I either spend even more coin on a convection oven or buy a cheap oven thermometer. I opted for the thermometer.

before I got non stick foil i'd just stand the boolits on their bases. after they were done cooking but before they were fully cooled I could usually break them from the foil before it was fully stuck. on the ones where the foil did stick I figured it would act like a mini gas check lol.