Zero'ing a Garand

[Dave Waits]

This is mainly for guys like but, a lot of this is applicable to boltguns and such with Iron sights.

Setup on the rifle- Front sight centered, rear sight windage adjustment centered, Elevation run down all the way then raised eight clicks.

Now, you really need a calm day to do this on. We're going to go through what's necessary to get a 100 yard zero, ranges farther than that will be explained but, it's easy. Set up a 25 yard slowfire pistol target at 100 yards. Trust me on this, it's all math. You'll need to fire from a bench if possible because you need to rest the rifle to do this. Whatever you use for a rest remember; DO NOT REST THE RIFLE AHEAD OF THE SLING FERRULE. Resting the rifle on the front handguard will screw up the sightin. Now, use a six O'Clock hold the front post in the rear aperature centered with the bottom of the bull resting on the top of the post. Think Lollipop. Get a good cheekweld on the comb and fire an eight-shot group without raising your head to see where you're shooting. Just concentrate on shooting the group and hold the same sight picture.

Now, go get the target. Draw a vertical line from the top of the target to the bottom and draw a horizontal bisecting line from one side to the other with both lines crossing in the middle of the X-Ring. Find the center of your group and measure from there to both lines This will give you both adjustments, Elevation and windage to put you theoretically in the X-Ring.

Say that your group-center is three inches low and two inches to the right. This means you need three clicks up on elevation and two clicks for windage but, we're not going to adjust the windage with the rear sight. We're going to make the change with the front sight since it isn't more than four inches. Here's the secret, for every .007 you move the front sight, left or right or by filing down, you move the point of impact 1" at 100 yards. There's a formula for this and I'll add it at the bottom but, trust me, the formula works for any rifle, any caliber.

Okay, to do this you need three tools. An Allen Wrench(3/16ths.), a scribe, and a dial-Vernier or commonly called a Caliper. Scribe a line on one side of the sight on the sightbase of the Gas Cylinder so you can move it back once you loosen the front sight. When you loosen it you'll see why. Take the Caliper and adjust it to read .014 and lock it(.007 times 2). Now, put the tailpiece of the Caliper against the right side of the sightbase and move the front sight to the right until it hits the tailpiece( To move left, you move the front sight to the right. This moves the muzzle left) and tighten the Allen screw in the front sight snug. Remove the tailpiece and tighten the screw down more. There! Your windage is set, now just crank the elevation up three clicks and you're done.

To adjust for 200 yards add two more clicks of Elevation. for 300 yards, add three more clicks. going to 600 from 300 add 12 more clicks.

Sight Correction formula

Sight-radius in inches times 1"( change of impact at 100 yards)divided by range to target in inches.

28" x 1" / 3600= .007"

This works for any rifle and most pistols/revolvers. Just plug in your sight-radius and distance to target in inches. It's also the correct way to zero an M1A.

[BlackKnight]

Perfect timing. Now that the weather is breaking I want to zero in my Garands.
I want to try some service matches.

[Caleb]

Thanks Dave, I will print this out and take it with me to the range.

PS: You might want to ad how to calibrate the rear elevation knob once you are zeroed to your desired yardage. Just a thought.

PPS: Here you go.....

[semiller1911]

When I first read the title, I thought it said Zeroing a Grenade.... I don't know how but it would be fun to try!

Sorry, I need more coffee.

[Dave Waits]

, the best way to calibrate the Elevation Knob is to do it the way they taught us on the ANG Team, buy a cheap six color Testor's model airplane paint kit. With your 200 yard zero, take a toothpick and dab it in white paint and put it at 12 O'Clock on the Receiver at the knob and mark right across on the knob with Yellow, Add clicks to 300 and put a dab of green on the knob, crank up to 600 and put a dab of Red on the knob. Whatever range you need, now all you have to do is align the correct color on the knob with the white dab. It's faster than any other method.


The big thing to remember is that, like any other firearm, this will work for whatever load you use to sight-in. If you change loads, say, going from HXP to a Matchload with a 168 or 175 you will have to tweek the clicks by one or two.

[Caleb]

Gotcha.

I have already painted the markings in white for easy visablility.

When doing the 300-600yd marks, can I do this at home once I have my 200yd zero by just the clicks? The reason I ask is, I don't have anything past 200yds available without paying $$$$$ to rent the 600yd range (used for long range classes and LEO, mainly).

[BlackKnight]

I'm a police sniper and shot long distance in military and police competitions and my zero never changed between positions. Maybe it's different with scoped rifles. This summer I'm finally going to get to zero my garands. I'll be curious of the results.


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[Grouse]

Huh, I never really thought about any of those points. I zero it, and shoot it.

I will say if i hit the broad side of a barn while inside it, I consider it a good day.

[aloreman]

Originally Posted by BlackKnight

I'm a police sniper and shot long distance in military and police competitions and my zero never changed between positions. Maybe it's different with scoped rifles. This summer I'm finally going to get to zero my garands. I'll be curious of the results.


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Scoped rifles are a different animal.

[Caleb]

Originally Posted by aloreman

Scoped rifles are a different animal.

So, if I duct tape a scope to the Garand....I would have to re-zero the rifle?