Casting .38 and 9mm

[Gatorade]

Does anyone cast bullets for 9mm and .38? Is that .001" difference between the two that big a difference? I wouldn't mind a heavy 9mm and a light .38 if I could use the same mold for both.

[sdmc530]

I don't cast but I know does, me might be of help.

[Lonestar grips.]

i'm no expert so keep that in mind but I would say the short answer is yes you could use one mold for both calibers, that's why Ruger Makes a 357/38spl Blackhawk with a spare 9mm cylinder. there are problems that can arise though.

to get the best accuracy possible you need to know what your chamber throats are running in your 38 revolver (i'm assuming that's what it is) and size your bullets to that. same goes for the bore diameter in the 9mm. (i'm assuming it's a semi auto) if the 9mm's bore is oversized or the 38's throats are under sized then you could size the bullets to the same size for both guns since they'd be really close in size to one another.

if there is a vast difference between the two then I would find a mold that threw out .359 bullets and then get two sizing dies, one for each gun. if you shoot too big a bullet for the barrel then you are going to have pressure issues and if you shoot too small a bullet for the barrel then you will have leading issues.

[sdmc530]

see told you he was an expert. can do anything!

[Gatorade]

Funny you should bring up the Ruger. That is the exact gun I have. I have another .38 revolver and a 9mm semi auto so I was thinking I could reload for all three with one mold. I will probably get other molds down the line but would be happy if I could get up and running for two calibers with one mold.

[Lonestar grips.]

Originally Posted by sdmc530

see told you he was an expert. can do anything!

if only that were true.

Originally Posted by Gatorade

Funny you should bring up the Ruger. That is the exact gun I have. I have another .38 revolver and a 9mm semi auto so I was thinking I could reload for all three with one mold. I will probably get other molds down the line but would be happy if I could get up and running for two calibers with one mold.

I would take your Ruger to a smith that has pin gauges and see what the throats are running in your cylinders. you can do it with calipers or a known size jacketed bullet but it won't be as accurate as a pin gauge. once you know that you can then choose a mold and sizing die that fits your needs.

also i'd look into Lee Molds. you can get double cavity molds with the handles for around $22. six cavity molds run about $35 and usually don't include the handles. in the long run that would be the simpler/easier way to go.

http://www.amazon.com/Lee-Precision-...ords=lee+molds

http://www.amazon.com/Lee-Precision-...ords=lee+molds

[Gatorade]

Another update, so I had the brilliant idea that since I ordered the 158gr casting die that I would be able to pull the .38 Special 125gr FMJ bullets from a pile of 700 bullets that I have, and load .38 special in the .38 brass with the newly cast bullets. Well just from that some may think I am nuts but I am a little smarter than I look so I pull d (1) of the .38 Special 125gr FMJ rounds. My micrometer sized it at .357, .001" and 10gr over what I consider the ideal 9mm round at .356 and 115gr FMJ. So I check the Bullseye data and they have a 125gr FMJ load of 4.6. So I trickle off 4.6 and try to seat the bullet in the 9mm brass. No go, the brass wrinkled one section of the bullet. Maybe I didn't have enough flare on the brass but I think that .001" might be too much for a straight walled cartridge. I could probably run them through a .356 sizing die but at that point I feel I am trying to force something that shouldn't happen. So I will keep the 125gr FMJ loaded as .38 special and will cast the 158gr LFN for .38 special and will wait and order .356 115gr FMJ when I can afford it.

Thanks for the input and I hope this thread will help others if they have the same questions in the future.