Wow! Don't know where to start here. First, and I'm not trying to be insulting, Mating a hammer and sear isn't a job for a beginner. A lot of things come into play here when you start changing out interrelating parts one at a time. What I'm trying to say here is that if you change the sear, it affects the Hammer and the Thumb-safety. If you replace one, you should really replace all three. Why? Because the Hammer hooks are mated to the previous sear and may not work well with the new sear. Factory sears are often different lengths from one to another. They're all fitted to the hammer and vice-versa at the factory. Your replacement sear may be too long or too short, or, your hooks may be too short for the new sear even with a breakaway angle. Your Thumb-Safety is fitted to the sear for reliable operation, replacing the sear may well make the Thumb-Safety inoperable. For example, if the factory sear was thicker in the Sear engagement area, as shown below, the Thumb-Safety Sear engagement area may be too short to block the new sear
I would suggest you instead purchase one of the Sets sold by Brownells, such as the Cylinder&Slide MARSOC set along with a new Thumb-Safety. These sets are drop-in and all you will have to fit is the Thumb-Safety, a much simpler job for someone who doesn't work on guns like the 1911 a lot. I'm not familiar with the Wilson Jig so, I can't help you there. I used until recently, a jig I built to fit the hammer and sear. Now I use a TR jig made by Chuck Warner.
Hope this helps.
Dave