Okay, once a 1911 is broken-in(God! I hate that term), the lube requirements drop a lot. Translation; You don't need as much as you would think. So, without further ado(Fancy term for BS), here's how I lube mine.
The usual suspects;
Disassemble and clean. As you can see, I use Plastilube Grease( Small yellow-lid tub) and LSA gun-oil.
1.) The Rails- You don't need a lot of grease here, I take a Q-Tip,dab it into the tube of grease and put three small dabs on each rail,front center and rear;
2.) The Barrel- I put two drops of LSA(Be sure to shake the squeeze bottle vigorously for about fifteen seconds first) on the barrel. One towards the muzzle,the other on the Hood.
Then I smooth the oil over the entire barrel with my finger until it's all got a light coating of oil on it.
3.) The Link- I put one drop of oil on the link at the lug and work it back and forth a couple times.
4.) Assemble the 1911 and work the slide about five times. Then wipe the excess grease off of the rear of the slide.
5.) The Hammer pivot- I put one drop of LSA on the Hammer pivot and work the hammer twice.
Done, I've run 500 rounds through my Rock with just this level of lubing and had no problems. Now, you'll all notice I didn't oil the rifling and chamber. Guess what??? You don't need to unless the gun won't be shot for a couple months or you live in an extremely humid climate. I shoot at least twice,most times four times a month, rust or corrosion doesn't have time to form before I clean again. Plus, an oily bore will throw the first round off(Cold-bore syndrome) and oil in the chamber can increase pressure by not allowing full stretch of the case.
Hope this helps you guys.
Dave